Portable battery power stations, like those from Jackery, are a great addition to your emergency kit, especially when paired with a solar panel for off-grid charging. However, you can easily build your own, customizing it for your specific needs and learning about electronics along the way.
This project is simple: add batteries, a solar charge controller, and various ports to a waterproof ammo box, allowing you to charge and power small electronics such as phones, tablets, laptops, lamps, and fans. You don’t need to be an electronics expert or have soldering skills to complete this. It’s affordable and can make future power outages more manageable.
Here's what the finished product looks like:
How Does This Compare to Commercial Products?
This DIY project cost around $180 and provides 198 usable watt-hours of power in a ~22-pound package. Here's how it stacks up against similar commercial models at the time of writing:- The Joyzis 296Wh station costs $170. It’s lighter due to better lithium-ion batteries but only supports 100W devices and has one AC port.
- The Jackery 240 has 42 more watt-hours, costs $200, but only has one AC port and two fewer USB ports.
- The Baldr 173Wh station is priced at $150, but it has less battery capacity, only one AC port, and two fewer USB ports, though it offers USB-C charging and a 200W output.
- The Anker 256Wh station appears to be a superior option at $200, offering 200W output, two AC ports, two USB-A ports, one USB-C port, and LiFePo4 batteries. However, it isn’t waterproof and lacks the upgradeability of this DIY setup.
Gathering the Parts
This project is highly customizable depending on your budget and intended use. Learn the basics and then tailor it to your needs.The Build
Before final assembly, test fit all components to see how they will fit together. Start by placing the batteries in the bottom and cutting a cardboard piece to represent the panel where the components will be mounted. This keeps everything protected and organized. I traced the component outlines on the cardboard to visualize their placement. This process helped me realize that pushing the batteries together allowed space for the inverter and charging cable near the front. I trimmed the cardboard template to create more access space, improving usability without sacrificing functionality. Some variations include using a single 15Ah battery for a cheaper option, four 9Ah batteries for more capacity (at the expense of weight), or plexiglass instead of wood for a transparent design. Alternatively, you could skip mounting everything to a panel and keep things loose inside the case. Next, transfer the layout to a piece of plywood and start cutting. I used a hand saw, power drill, and sandpaper—though a jigsaw would have made the job easier. I applied wood stain to the panel for durability and aesthetics. Wiring is next. Draw a diagram of how each component connects. Test the system before final assembly by connecting wires directly to the battery and solar controller. If you're not confident in soldering, consider using terminal connectors like spade and ring terminals for easy installation. During my build, I accidentally shorted the positive and negative wires, which blew a 20A fuse. Always keep spare fuses handy. Now, connect the battery terminals in parallel and install a 12V 20A fuse to protect the system. Then, wire the switch to control power flow. Connect the positive battery terminal to the middle prong of the switch and the third prong to the solar charge controller. For versatility, I added banana jack ports for solar input and DC output. These can also accommodate other devices like a cigarette lighter socket or a power inverter. To charge the system, I used a 18V wall adapter connected to banana jacks. Be cautious when handling these connections, especially in environments with potential gas leaks.Charge Controller Settings
Before using the system, adjust the charge controller settings to prolong battery life. The manual was confusing, so I referred to a YouTube tutorial. Here are my settings:- Main display: Shows voltage, charging status, battery level, and load activity.
- Maximum voltage: Set to 14.0V to prevent overcharging.
- Discharge reconnect: 12.5V. Disconnects power if the battery drops below this.
- Discharge stop: 11.5V. Cuts power completely until the battery is recharged.
- Work mode: 24H setting for continuous use.
- Battery type: B1 for sealed lead-acid batteries.
Performance
This unit won’t power large appliances like refrigerators or space heaters, but it works well for small devices. For example:- A 60W light bulb runs for about 3 hours.
- A 150W heating pad lasts about 1 hour and 15 minutes.
- A 45W laptop can run for over 4 hours.
Variations and Customization
Inspired by Benjamin Nelson’s video, I made several changes. He used a four-in-one panel with extra features, but I opted for simplicity. I used a single cigarette port and relied on the charge controller’s built-in USB ports. I also used a daisy-chain wiring method instead of a central point for cleaner wiring. In summary, this DIY power station is a cost-effective, customizable solution for emergency power needs. Whether you’re preparing for power outages or simply looking for a portable power source, building your own gives you control, flexibility, and a sense of accomplishment.Used low noise and long lifetime moto. Precision mechanical welding iron fram, more stable
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