Reinhold Messner - Reinhold Messner: Great Mountaineer

Reinhold Messner - Reinhold Messner

He is the most famous contemporary mountaineer and he was the first person in the world to climb 14 peaks of 8000 meters. Born in South Tyrol in 1948 and started climbing at the age of 5.

At the age of 20, he and his brother Gunter almost climbed over all the toughest routes in Dolmites and the Western Alps. His creed is light mountain alpinism. Later, Gunter died when he first climbed Nanga Parbat in the Himalayas.

After the first anaerobic Mount Everest, he climbed Nanga Parbat and Everest alone. He became the first person to board all the 8,000-meter peaks and the third person to finish the highest peak in 7 continents. He is a legend alive among climbers.

“Although the world thinks that the climb of arrogant Mount Everest and the climb of Nanga Parbat alone is insurmountable,” he said, in fact, his personal feats should have been in 1984 and Hans Kammerlander in Gaschurebru 1. 2 crossing between peaks.

In 1975, he and Peter Habeler announced that they will apply the Alpine law at the peak of 8000 meters. As a result, they succeeded in the peak of Gashur Brum 1 and made this method known.

The most valuable thing for Messner is that he is the only person who climbs the summit of the Rupal line in Nanga Parbat. It may also be the only person who climbs the Everest alone. Today, Mount Everest is crowded with people, even if it is singled out. It just means no help from the charge camp to the summit. Messner peaked at the end of the monsoon, and now I am afraid that no one can do it.

At present, Messner has stopped climbing, but in 1996 he still appeared in the first peak of the BC in Gashuler, but when he saw the people in the mountains, he turned and left.

After his fame, Messner lived in the castle of Juval under the Italian Alps and began to focus on light polar expeditions. In 1990, he tried to hike to the North and South poles for the first time, but he did not succeed. The second time he was brewing in his mind.

Messner was one of the few Westerners who claimed to have seen a snowman. He said he had met twice, met the snowman for the second time in the Karakoram climb, and took pictures to testify that these were written. In his 1999 book.

Some people say that Messner's character was altered by the damage caused by hypoxia and the brain, and he warned future generations not to fight too hard on the mountains. However, which person has experienced no change after he has received much attention?

Messner, as a top mountaineer and real climbing hero, will continue to inspire the new generation of climbers in the 21st century.

Recent news: In 2000, Messner and his brothers Hubert and Hans Peter Eisendle and Wolfgang Thomaseth tried the unknown route of Nanga Parbat. After climbing a very high mountain, they found that the route to the summit was too dangerous. It is difficult to continue.

Mountaineering experience:
1966-Yerupaja
1966-Yerupaja Chico (first board)
1970-Nanga Parbat, Nanga Parbat (8125m, Rupal Line, first boarding)
1972 - Manaslu Manaslu (8156m, South Wall)
1974～Eiger north face
1975 - Gasherbrum I (Northwestern Wall, the first alpine climbing over 8000 meters above the summit)
1977 - Dhaulagiri, Dhaulagiri (8167m)
1978 - Mount Everest of Mount Everest (8848m, anaerobic summit for the first time)
1978 - Nanga Parbat, Nanga Parbat (8125m, wall of Damir, the first person to climb the summit of 8000 meters above the summit)
1979-Koreo Peak K2 (8611m, the first Alpine climbing of this peak)
1979 - Ama Dablam (rescue operation)
1980 Mount Everest (8848m, north line, first single top)
1981~Shisha Pangma (8012m)
1982 ~ Gancheng Zhangjia Kangchenjunga (8598m, North Wall Line, first boarding)
1982 - Gasherbrüller 2Gasherbrum II (8035m)
1982 - Broad Peak (8048m)
1982 - Cho Oyo (8208m, Winter Climb)
1983 - Cho Oyo (8208m, alpine climbing)
1984 - Gashurbrülm 1, 2 Gasherbrum I & II (first 8000m mountain pass)
1985 - Annapurna, Annapurna (8091m, northwest wall line, first boarding)
1985 - Dhaulagiri of Dhaulagiri (8167m, northeast ridge, alpine climbing)
1986 - Makalu Makalu (8485m, Winter Fails to Climb, Continues to Climb in Summer)
1986 - Lhotse (8511m)

The most famous climber in the world today, Reinhold Messner has been climbing since he was five years old. Born 1948 in Villnæ­´s in the South Tyrol.

By the age of 20, he had climbed most of the hardest routes in the Dolmites and Western Alps together with his brother Gunter and had already started to formulate his dedication and philosophy in clean lightweight Alpine-style climbing. Gunter was later killed by an avalanche On Nanga Parbat during their first Himalayan expedition.

After the first oxygenless climb of Everest, his solo ascents of Nanga Parbat and Everest, being the first to climb all eight-thou sanders and finishing the "Seven Summits"as the third person, he is a living legend among climbers.--" As far as the public is concerned, since 1978 my sensational climbs~Everest without oxygen and Nanga Parbat solo~are unsurpassable." Messner man consider the traverse between Gasherbrum I and II with Hans Kammerlander in 1984~to be his supreme Himalayan achievement.

In 1975 he and Peter Habeler made a statement that they were going to attack a 8,000 metre mountain in the same manner as done in the Alps. After succeeding on Gasherbrum I, their climb is regarded as the introduction of the "alpine style" climbing.

Something to remember about Messners climbs that really point out his capabilities is that today today is is only person to have climbed the extremely dangerous Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat and probably the only person that ever truly will climb Everest alone. Today the mountain is crowded And if someone claims to have climbed it "solo", it means that it was done without help from others from the last camp to the summit. Also, Messner did his climb during the past-monsoon season, something never done before.

Today Messner has stopped climbing and said that never never will return to the high mountains, but in 1996 he showed up in base camp below Gasherbrum I, to just turn around when he saw the crowd in base-camp. He actually admits playing with The thougt to once more go back, but if this happens only the future will show.

Messer who"s become a wealthy man, has no intention to settle himself in a risk-free environment in his Castle Juval in the Italian Alps, during recent years he"s became totally absorbed with lightweight polar expeditions. In 1990 he was first again , now by crossing the Antarctic continent on foot. Later it was time for the Arctic, 103 the expedition was unsuccessful, but a second try is on his mind...

Messner is also one of the few western people that claims to have seen the Yeti. According to Messner, he"s met it twice, the second time during his latest expedition to Karakorum, this time with pictures as proof! They are published in his Latest book, released in 1999.

Some people say of Messner that his personality has changed after his high altitude climbs, they suspect brain damage due to lack of oxygen, and uses him as a warning example of what can happen when pushing it to hard on extreme altitudes. The famous Shepra, Nazir Sabir who"s been climbing with Messner, also said to have introduced Messner to the art of smoking hasch at high altidudes. If this is true, it"s not hard to imagine that this must be an easy way of loosing braincells by millions !!--But who wouldn't change when getting so much attention?

Reinhold Messners memory as a top mountaineer and a true climbing hero will continue inspire generations of climbers into the 21th century.

Latest news: In the summer of 2000 Reinhold returned to Nanga Parbat to try an unclimbed route. With him was his brother Hubert, Hans Peter Eisendle and Wolfgang Thomaseth. After reaching very high on the mountain wall, they found the summit ridge too dangerous to Continue.

SELECTED CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS:

1950～64～Over 500 climbs in the eastern Alps, mainly in the Dolomites
1965～ Ortler North Face (Direttissima, 1st ascent)
1966-Yerupaja
1966～Yerupaja Chico (first ascent)
1966~Walker Spur, Grandes Jorasses
1966 - Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero North Face
1967 to Civetta Northwest Face ("Weg der Freunde", first ascent)
1967～Agner North Edge (first winter ascent)
1967 - Furchetta North Face (first winter ascent)
1967～Agner Northeast Face (first ascent)
1968～Agner North Face (first winter ascent)
1968~Eiger North Pillar (first ascent)
1968～Marmolata South Face (first ascent)
1969 - Droites North Face (solo)
1969～Marmolata di Rocca South Face (solo)
1969 to Civetta ("Philipp Flamm", solo)
1970~Nanga Parbat (8125m, Rupal face, first ascent)
1971 - Expeditions to Nepal, Pakistan, Persia, East Africa, New Guinea
1972~Manaslu (8156m, South Face)
1972～Noshaq (7492m, in Hindu Kush)
1973~Pelmo Northwest Face (first ascent)
1973-Marmolata West Pillar (first ascent)
1973 - Furchetta West Face (first ascent)
1974 to Eiger north face (in 10 hours)
1974 to Aconcagua (6959m, South face, first ascent)
1975 to Gasherbrum I Northwest Face (first alpine style ascent above 8000m)
1976 to McKinley (6193m)
1976～"Wall of the Midnight Sun" (first ascent)
1977 to Dhaulagiri (8167m, failed)
1978～Mount Everest (8850m, first ascent without supplemental oxygen)
1978～Nanga Parbat (8125m, Damir face, first solo ascent of an 8000m peak)
1978～Kilimanjaro (5963m, Breach Wall, first ascent)
1979～K2 (8611m, first ascent in alpine style)
1979 to Ama Dablam (rescue operation)
1980～ Mount Everest north side (8850m, first and only true solo ascent)
1981~Shisha Pangma (8012m)
1981～Chamlang North Face of the central summit (7317m, first ascent)
1982～Kangchenjunga north face (8598m, first ascent)
1982 to Gasherbrum II (8035m)
1982～Broad Peak (8048m)
1982～Cho Oyo (8222m, attempt in winter)
1983～Cho Oyo (8222m, alpine style)
1984 to Gasherbrum I and II (first traverse between 8000m mountains)
1985 - Annapurna Northwest Face (8091m, first ascent)
1985 to Dhaulagiri Northeast Edge (8167m, alpine style)
1986~Makalu (8485m, failen in winter, returned in summer)
1986 to Lhotse (8511m)
1986～ Mount Vinson (4897m, Antarctica)
1987～Journey to Bhutan and the Pamirs
1988～Yeti-Tibet-expedition
1989~Lhotse (8511m, South face attempt)
1990～ Traversed Antarctica (via the South Pole on foot～2800km)
1991~ Traversed Bhutan (east to west)
1991～Hike in South Tyrol (800km)
1992～Chimborazo
1992～Crossed the Takla Makan desert (south to north)
1993～Journey to the Dolpo, Mustang and Manang areas in Nepal
1993～Traverse of Greenland (from southeast to northwest on foot～2200km)
1994～Himalayan environmental trek to Gangotri in India
1994-Shivling (6543m)
1994~Ruwenzori (5119m, Uganda)
1995~ Attempt to traverse the Arctic (Siberia to Canada)
1995～Belucha (4506m, Altai, Siberia)
1996～Journey through East Tibet (Chengdu to Lhasa and to the Kailash)
1997～Journey to Kham (eastern Tibet)
1997～ Karakorum-expedition
1997～document.ry on the Ol Doinyo Lengai in Africa
1998~Journey to the Altai Mountains (Mongolia)
1998~Journey to Puna de Atacama (Andes)
1999~document.ry on San Francisco Peaks, USA
2000～South Georgia (traverse following in Shackletons footsteps)

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