The Deng Xie Training Course is just an entry class for climbing literacy :)
After climbing a route, try to make some of its feet smaller, or increase, or lower, or remove it.
You can find which foot points are required and which ones can be replaced by friction plates.
Let's go out on the line with each other. Don't just point out the difficulty, but also more technical movements, awkward movements, or force-making directions.
Try to climb a little static and try to do it gently. Hold your hand and watch your feet until you step on it.
Our goal is not to complete the line. But to learn something in the line.
After completing a route and thinking about it, is it not the best? Have you ever relaxed your vigilance?
Is it the best way to do it? Isn't it the smoothest way to use it? Can it reduce the rest?
Was it because of negligence wasted power?
Use the smoothest and most perfect action to complete it over and over, focusing on every moment.
If you slip away, you need to think about the reason, and don't rush to do it again. The reasons for slipping are two things:
Stepping on the wrong position, stepping down is not enough.
The position is the most effective position, that is, the best position to step on or the direction of the most suitable force.
Not careful enough: Did you put your feet up in earnest? Are you doing a good job of turning around?
Or is it just a matter of casually putting your feet up and getting ready?
When you are having difficulty, relax and pay attention to your feet.
Stabilize first (not put your feet up, but press firmly) and then hold it firmly.
Moving the good foot first and then moving the hand can save the hand strength and reduce the chance of the foot falling.
Don't just climb your feet and just climb
The following is an article on footwork, very useful! !
*************************************
Magic of feet "Hot feet"
Originally included in Rock & Ice No 66. (C) 1995
Original author Dougald MacDonald
*************************************
"Climb rock with your feet", you may have heard this sentence numerous times, but you can do better. No matter how much you climb, you will always find new skills to use your feet.
For beginners, the most important thing is to learn how to step on the rock shoes without slipping. Further training makes the footwork more accurate, and for advanced climbers the body posture must be matched with different foot techniques, and learning how to use the foot to support the weight of the body in the hanging rock. This article describes some practical ways to train your foot skills. These exercises can be practiced on natural or artificial rock sites. Of course, this venue must have enough feet to choose from. Even if you can climb to 5.12, some beginner exercises can also increase your skill proficiency. Of course, if you feel that some of the exercises are too simple, then change your feet to smaller ones.
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The biggest problem for beginner rock climbers is that they use excessive hand strength to support their body weight and do not know how to use his feet. If your feet can exert more force, your relative hand can save more effort. Therefore, the focus of this phase of practice is on training the feet to share some of the weight.
1. Every time you move your hand, try to move your feet and place your body's center of gravity on both feet to feel the friction between the feet and the rock wall to support your body. Then consider how to step on your feet. Before you move your feet, carefully pick the best place to step on, and try to place your rock shoes in the best place.
After climbing a route, try to make some of its feet smaller, or increase, or lower, or remove it.
You can find which foot points are required and which ones can be replaced by friction plates.
Let's go out on the line with each other. Don't just point out the difficulty, but also more technical movements, awkward movements, or force-making directions.
Try to climb a little static and try to do it gently. Hold your hand and watch your feet until you step on it.
Our goal is not to complete the line. But to learn something in the line.
After completing a route and thinking about it, is it not the best? Have you ever relaxed your vigilance?
Is it the best way to do it? Isn't it the smoothest way to use it? Can it reduce the rest?
Was it because of negligence wasted power?
Use the smoothest and most perfect action to complete it over and over, focusing on every moment.
If you slip away, you need to think about the reason, and don't rush to do it again. The reasons for slipping are two things:
Stepping on the wrong position, stepping down is not enough.
The position is the most effective position, that is, the best position to step on or the direction of the most suitable force.
Not careful enough: Did you put your feet up in earnest? Are you doing a good job of turning around?
Or is it just a matter of casually putting your feet up and getting ready?
When you are having difficulty, relax and pay attention to your feet.
Stabilize first (not put your feet up, but press firmly) and then hold it firmly.
Moving the good foot first and then moving the hand can save the hand strength and reduce the chance of the foot falling.
Don't just climb your feet and just climb
The following is an article on footwork, very useful! !
*************************************
Magic of feet "Hot feet"
Originally included in Rock & Ice No 66. (C) 1995
Original author Dougald MacDonald
*************************************
"Climb rock with your feet", you may have heard this sentence numerous times, but you can do better. No matter how much you climb, you will always find new skills to use your feet.
For beginners, the most important thing is to learn how to step on the rock shoes without slipping. Further training makes the footwork more accurate, and for advanced climbers the body posture must be matched with different foot techniques, and learning how to use the foot to support the weight of the body in the hanging rock. This article describes some practical ways to train your foot skills. These exercises can be practiced on natural or artificial rock sites. Of course, this venue must have enough feet to choose from. Even if you can climb to 5.12, some beginner exercises can also increase your skill proficiency. Of course, if you feel that some of the exercises are too simple, then change your feet to smaller ones.
-----------------------------------
primary:
----------------------------------
The biggest problem for beginner rock climbers is that they use excessive hand strength to support their body weight and do not know how to use his feet. If your feet can exert more force, your relative hand can save more effort. Therefore, the focus of this phase of practice is on training the feet to share some of the weight.
1. Every time you move your hand, try to move your feet and place your body's center of gravity on both feet to feel the friction between the feet and the rock wall to support your body. Then consider how to step on your feet. Before you move your feet, carefully pick the best place to step on, and try to place your rock shoes in the best place.
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